In the UK and US, however, the cosplay has become less vital. What does seem to matter is where a cosplayer gets their inspiration. Many of the cosplayers I have spoken with define it similarly to Abby, from the US: "The important thing about cosplay is that it is derived from a specific work already in publication. A steampunk outfit, for example, would be cosplay if it was based on a specific outfit in a Jules Verne novel, but not if you randomly throw steampunk accessories together."
While most cosplayers do not usually believe their creations directly affect published texts, they do expect reactions to their character interpretations by fellow fans. Allison, an American cosplayer from Georgia, enjoys crossplaying, in part because "it's really satisfying when you play your part so well that an observer doesn't realise you're a crossplayer until you speak". Fans such as Allison challenge gender presentation in their fan communities, illustrating the fluidity of gender in the context of their subcultures. cosplay shop

Female cosplayers are often challenged by source texts that don't offer interesting, independent, or strong female characters, or make these characters minor. One solution is to crossplay, but some are unsatisfied by this option, preferring to change the gender of the source character. For female cosplayers, this activity is often referred to as "femme-ing" a character. Women who go this route choose a male character and interpret it as female. By doing so, they directly address and correct gender inequity in their chosen works of art.
A popular example of femme cosplay is the femme Doctor: female cosplayers choose a doctor from the Doctor Who series and interpret him as a woman. This cosplay of a femme fourth Doctor and this one of a femme fifth Doctor both include skirts, but some femme cosplayers, like this femme ninth Doctor, opt for trousers, while still maintaining the "femme" feel of the cosplay costumes.
That femme-ing is so popular in geek fan cultures marks the fact that, as a whole, these subcultures' original inspirations overwhelmingly favour hero-men over hero-women, and frequently cast women only in the limited roles of mother, lover or trusty friend. But not all cosplay is subversive: it mainly offers a space in which fans can appreciate, criticise and deconstruct what they love.
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